Are you planning to embark on Everest’s greatest trekking adventure? This guide outlines a typical Three Passes Trek itinerary, as well as hopefully answering all questions you have about tackling the Three High Passes and Everest Base Camp in Nepal’s Himalaya.
It’s no secret that the Three Passes Trek is the ultimate Everest trekking experience. Not only will you be getting off the beaten trail into the lesser-traversed alpine regions of the Khumbu, but you’ll also be immersed in the beauty and warm hospitality of Sherpa culture.
In this Three Passes trek guide, I have included numerous useful resources and information, and after having completed the trek in 2019, I can give a personal account of what to expect on the journey.
Trekking the Three Passes Independently
This guide is dedicated to independent trekking. This means planning your own trip and carrying your own gear, staying in teahouses along the way.
Of course, you can hire a guide and a porter, which is a great thing because it supports the livelihoods of local sherpa communities.
However, you are not obligated to hire a guide or porter. Independent trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, including the Three Passes Trek, is completely doable and common.
While many people feel obligated to hire a guide or porter, many trekkers, including myself, prefer a sense of independent trekking achievement. I believe I share this sentiment with many when I say that I enjoy the freedom of planning my own trips and adventures.
Again, independent trekking is more about flexibility and freedom than saving money. I encourage everyone who wants to trek to Everest Base Camp and the Three Passes to contribute by paying for meals and teahouses.
BEFORE YOU GO: Travel is back! Don’t forget travel insurance in 2022. I swear by adventure travel insurance from World Nomads since they’ll cover everything adventure travel related. Alternatively, check out SafetyWing to save money on longer trips
Three Passes: Independent Trekking Guide Ebook
Since internet connectivity is limited in the Khumbu, I’ve written a comprehensive trekking guide to the Three Passes which you can download as an eBook for use on your mobile, tablet, or e-reader.
I’ve currently got this eBook listed on Amazon at a discounted price of less than $6!
Three Passes Trek Itinerary Overview
Essential Trekking Resources for the Three Passes Trek
Before we get into this Three Passes Trek itinerary blog, here are some more essential resources for everyone planning to tackle the passes. I used most of these on my treks in Nepal but some I discovered in hindsight.
- The Lonely Planet: Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya eBook
Having this guide on a kindle is a great complement to other resources. It includes maps, day-by-day trekking information, and information on towns and teahouses. eBooks on a kindle are great because it’s much lighter. - A Physical Khumbu Trekking Map
This is essential to have. You can buy one before you get to Nepal, or purchase one in Thamel. Make sure to look for one that includes the Three Passes loop. - WelcomeNepal website
The best source for up-to-date information about park entrance fees and permits. - Maps.Me App
Has a rough route for the Three Passes. However, it definitely shouldn’t be used as a primary source of navigation but can come in handy. - Understanding of Altitude Sickness
Make sure to read up on AMS and how to minimize risk and exposure. Do your own research and consult a doctor if necessary. - Travel Insurance
I’d highly recommend travel insurance for any Three Passes trek itinerary. Make sure to read your PDS to see if there are exclusions for trekking above certain altitudes (usually 4000M). World Nomads is one of the only companies I know that covers the Three Passes Trek. - Skyscanner
Very useful for finding the cheapest flights to Kathmandu and Lukla. - Booking.com
Useful for finding cheap accommodation in Kathmandu and Thamel before flying to Lukla. - Three Passes Trek eBook – I’ve summarized all of my Three Passes guides into one digital format.
Regional Map
The Three Passes trek is essentially a large alpine loop of the Khumbu region. Below is a small map showing where the Three Passes and Everest Base Camp trek is located.
Everest Three Passes Trek Itinerary
Below is a complete Three Passes trek itinerary, which breaks down the trek day-by-day. This trekking plan follows a 19 or 20-day itinerary in an anti-clockwise direction. It’s highly recommended to hike it in this direction, for reasons which I’ll get into further on.
Remember that I’ve also written comprehensive trekking guides for each day, which you’ll find in the links to below.
I’ve also written detailed guides on what to expect on the acclimatization and side-trips included on this Three High Passes trek itinerary:
Everything You Need to Know About Tackling the Three Passes Trek in Nepal
I know that when I was planning my Everest Three High Passes trek itinerary, I really struggled to find accurate and up-to-date information on the journey.
Therefore, this section is dedicated to answering all the questions you may have about tackling the Three Passes and EBC trek.
What are the Three Passes?
This trek is named after the “Three High Passes” that trekkers need to traverse in order to complete the loop. These passes offer a much more difficult, yet rewarding challenge as opposed to the mostly over-trafficked Everest Base Camp Trek.
The Three passes are Kongma La (5454M), Cho La (5420M), and the Renjo La (5360M).
The word: La or Lha, literally means that of which is “higher” or “above” in Tibetan. This is also the name given to mountain passes.
Travel Insurance for The Three Passes Trek
For most trekkers looking to tackle the Three Passes, travel insurance is high on their list of priorities.
If you’ve already got insurance, or you’re in the buying process, make sure to read the PDS for any exclusions for activities above a certain altitude. Many insurance companies do not cover any trekking activities above 4000M.
One of the only insurance companies that I was able to find that covers trekking on the Three High Passes is World Nomads.
How Hard is the Three Passes Trek?
The Three Passes trek is widely considered to be the most difficult trekking route in the Khumbu region. That being said, I believe that the difficulty is somewhat over-hyped.
The truth is, anyone with a good level of fitness, basic navigation experience and a strong will should be able to complete this trek. Of course, carrying your own pack makes things a lot more difficult, so make sure to keep it light.
How Long Does the Three Passes Trek Take?
Usually, the Three Passes Trek takes anywhere between 16-21 days, depending on how acclimatized trekkers are and if side-trips are planned. This Three Passes trek itinerary follows a 19-day trekking plan, not including the final flight from Lukla on day 20.
Three Passes Trek Distance
The approximate total distance of the Three Passes trek is 166 kilometers (103 miles). However, when trekking at altitude, it’s more important to consider your elevation gain and time spent at altitude than the distance covered.
Clockwise or Anti-Clockwise?
Starting the Three Passes Trek in a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction is perhaps the first question you might have when planning your trekking itinerary.
It is widely recommended that this trek should be attempted in an anti-clockwise direction. That is, starting with the Kongma La and finishing with the Renjo La.
Not only will you have a higher chance of clearing the passes when trekking in this direction, but you will largely minimize AMS risk in the first few days. This is because attempting to gain the Renjo La first requires at least 1000M of elevation gain to 5345M in a single day.
Hiking the Three Passes Trek in an anti-clockwise direction gives plenty of time for acclimatization hikes and allows for more gradual increases in altitude gain.
What is the Best Time to Attempt the Three Passes Trek?
While you can trek in the Himalayas most of the year, there are two primary climbing seasons that offer the best trekking conditions: March to May and September to November.
During the Winter Season, the passes are very icy, and heavy snowfall can interrupt routes. While it could be attempted, the passes would be much more difficult to traverse during winter, with closures common.
During Summer, the risk of avalanches is higher due to the quickly melting ice and snow on the Himalayan peaks.
MARCH TO MAY
From March to May, the Khumbu region enjoys Spring climates. This is the most popular season for trekking and expedition climbing. There is little rain during this time, the skies are clearer and the days are warmer. You’ll also be able to see blooming plants and lush rhododendron forests in the lower altitudes.
SEPTEMBER TO NOVEMBER
Another popular season for many Three Passes trekking itineraries is just after the monsoon in September to November. During this period, the clouds are clearing and there the weather is less hot. The landscapes at lower altitudes are also much greener and the weather is typically devoid of storms.
However, during the night it can be a little colder than in the Spring trekking season, so be prepared by bringing an extra thick sleeping bag.
How Much Does it Cost to Hike the Three Passes Trek?
Costs will vary depending on your lodging and meal expectations. If you’re on a tight budget, expect to pay around $800-$1000 for the entire trek, including accommodation, flights, and food.
However, for those who like some regular comforts, you can expect to pay more than double that.
This is especially true as the cost for simple things like hot tea and food goes up in proportion with altitude. Overall, the Three Passes trek is typically going to be more expensive than most other hikes in Nepal.
This is due to two main reasons.
- The trek is longer – you will need to pay for more teahouses and meals on the mountain
- The return flight to Lukla is expensive
However, for the experience, the money is 100% worth it and you might be surprised about just how affordable Khumbu teahouse trekking can be.
Here’s a breakdown of the costs involved with the Three Passes trek.
| COST | PRICE | TOTAL (20 Days) |
| Return flight to Lukla | $360 USD | $360 |
| Average teahouse bed per night | $6.50 | $130 |
| 2x Meals and trekking snacks daily | $15 | $300 |
| National Park Fees and Permits | $42 | $42 |
| Total: | $41.60 USD per day | $832 USD |
Tips For Booking the Lukla Flight
There are a couple of airlines that regularly fly from Kathmandu to Lukla. The most common and most reliable are Yeti Airlines and Summit Air.
It’s recommended to book a flight at least one week prior to departure. When booking flights, always aim for the earliest flight. This is due to the fact that delays occur daily, and the system works in a way that passengers with the earliest tickets leave first.
Three Passes Permits
Permits and National Park fees change regularly. The most up-to-date information regarding fees and permits is that you will be required to pay one Government fee and one National Park permit.
These are:
You are not required to purchase a TIMS card for this trek.
Both of these fees and permits can be purchased on the track, the local fee in Lukla, and the National Park Fee in Monjo. This means you don’t need to worry about arranging any fees or permits in Kathmandu.
These fee stations are en route to Namche Bazaar, and you simply won’t miss them.
Hotels and Hostels Before and After the Three Passes Trek
The best place to stay before and after the Three Passes trek is in the main tourist area of Thamel in Kathmandu.
Choosing the right place to stay before and after the trek is important because you will most likely need to leave some non-trekking gear with a trustworthy caretaker. Secondly, trust me when I say that you will want a nice bed with a warm shower once you return from the mountain.
Therefore, it’s best to choose the same hotel or hostel for the nights both before and after the Three Passes trek.
I stayed at Beehive Hostel, which is a budget lodging just 3 minutes from the main shopping district and offers warm showers and large, comfortable private rooms. They also let us leave our bags there for 20 days for free while we were in the Khumbu.
If you’re looking for something a bit classier, try Hotel Blue Horizon or the Fairfield by Marriot.
Tip: Leave Your Non-Trekking Related Gear in the Hotel
Chances are that you’ve got more things in your pack than needed on the trail. Most trekkers leave bags with items like chargers, laptops and clothes with their accommodation during their trek.
While most, if not all accommodation options in Thamel offer this service, some charge for it. To save money, book a place that does it for free and perhaps leave a tip to say thanks instead.
What About Mountain Sickness?
For anyone attempting this or any Three Passes trek itinerary, you will need to understand the risks of AMS or Acute Mountain Sickness.
Clearly, I’m not a doctor or an expert regarding health practices and therefore I can’t give you advice. However, you do need to understand that hiking at an altitude in the Khumbu does entail a risk of AMS.
So what is it?
Altitude sickness is caused by ascending too quickly. It is caused by low air pressure and less oxygen at higher altitudes.
It is important to slow down and to take acclimatization hikes and rest days to prevent it.
While many people take Diamox to prevent AMS by acting as a respiratory stimulant, the only way to truly prevent AMS is to trek slowly and take rest days. Of course, many trekkers including myself take Diamox (available cheaply in Thamel) in their first-aid kit just in case.
Remember to do your own research and to consult a doctor.
THREE PASSES PACKING LIST
Here’s a quick list of gear you’ll need on the trek. I’ve also written a separate, more comprehensive Three Passes packing list to help you plan out everything you need to bring on the trek, so make sure to check that out.
The essentials are:
- 40-60L hiking backpack and a rain cover– good brands include Osprey, Deuter, and Berghaus
- Water Bottle– I swear by Grayl bottles since they filter your water, meaning I don’t need to bring water purification tablets
- A layering system consisting of a base thermal layer, a trekking shirt and pants, an insulating layer, down layer, and a hardshell jacket.
- A physical map
- Electronics: Phone, Kindle, battery pack/power bank.
- Good quality, warn-in, trekking boots, and trekking socks
- Sunglasses and a buff
- First Aid Kit
- Microfibre towel, toiletries, and sunscreen
- Head torch (headlamp for Americans) & trekking poles
- Lightweight, warm fleece or cotton sleeping clothes and a -15 C sleeping bag
- Cash
MY CAMERA AND PHOTOGRAPHY EQUIPMENT
- Mirrorless Camera: Canon R5
- Drone: DJI Mavic Pro 2
- 360 Action Camera: Insta360 One X2
- Landscape Lens: Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L
- All-Round Lens: Canon RF 24-105mm f/4L
- Telephoto Lens: Canon RF 100-500mm f/f/4.5-7.1 L
- Long Action Pole: Insta360 Invisible Pole (BulletTime)
- Landscape Lens Filter: Hoya Circular Polarizer
- Camera Backpack: F-Stop Tilopa
- Favorite Photography Accessory: Peak Design Capture Clip
For a list of all my recommended photography gear (including what I use and why) check out my guide to camera gear for travel.
If you’d like to use any of the photographs on this website, please visit my licensing page to find out how. I also sell professional fine-art prints, visit my Print Store or contact me directly for customs prints of any images on We Seek Travel.
Loved the post, Olly. The pictures are mesmerizing. Are there any conditions(like medical checkups etc.) to get the permit or it is issued to all? There is a 3-pass trek route in the Indian Himalayas too. Do check my blogs. Thanks
It seems from the story that each day was very short, what did you do on the rest of the time?
Hi mate,
Each day definitely didn’t feel short. The trekking times that I’ve written in the itinerary only account for hours walking from each destination. Of course, trekking times will end up longer as you’ll probably want to stop for photos, take some side trips and spend some time in the tea houses between each destination. The Khumbu is absolutely incredible, from the sights to the people— you certainly won’t get bored.
This itinerary follows a fairly safe acclimatization plan. While it is tough, your body could physically walk further and longer each day, but it’s the attitude that will give you trouble if you push your limits.
Hi Olly,
Enjoyed and so encouraged by your independent trekking of the 3 Passes. I read many articles encouraging hiring of guides or porters. I went to EBC solo, without guide and porter and enjoyed it!
I am preparing to trek the 3 Passes next year with my son but perhaps the local government may not allow such independent trekking due to COVID-19.
Any words of encouragement if independent trekking is allowed next year in which I shall trek the 3 Passes
Hi Willie,
I can’t comment on the current situation regarding independent trekking but I wouldn’t be worrying too much. I know a few people who have been trekking in Nepal this year. Best to do your research though!
Things are certainly opening up and I’d say next year should be good to go regardless.
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Here is the itinerary of the Everest Three Pass Trek