Here’s how I planned and went on a fantastic wildlife river cruise on the Kinabatangan River near Sukau, Sabah– and how you can too!
Are you planning to add a Kinabatangan River Cruise to your Sabah itinerary? The first thing you need to know is that you need to go to Sukau.
From here, you can take several riverboat trips to see the amazing wildlife on the river. These river cruises were truly among the best wildlife experiences I’ve had in Asia. We spotted a wide range of primates, crocodiles, and tropical birds.
To help you plan your trip, I’ve written this Kinabatangan River to answer the common questions and guide you through what you need to know before heading to Sukau and down the Kinabatangan River.
How to Book a Trip to the Kinabatangan River
Before you plan, the amazing wildlife spotting experiences on offer on the Kinabatangan River mean that you definitely want to spend at least one night here.
However, the most difficult part I found when arranging my river cruise was organizing transport to the river. There is no public transport available.
Luckily, if you are staying in nearby Sandakan or Sepilok (to see the Orangutan conservation area) you can visit the Kinabatangan on an organized 2-day trip. This is the simplest way and ties well into your overall itinerary.
This trip includes your river cruises with a guide and a stay at the riverside Nature Lodge. But, more importantly, also includes transport in and out of the river area, which is the most difficult thing to arrange.
How To Get to Sukau (Kinabatangan River) Independently
While getting to the Kinabatangan River isn't the most straightforward process, it is possible to do it independently if you are on a budget. If you're looking to spend a couple of days here, then the best place to stay is the small village of Sukau.
Sukau is located on the banks of the Kinabatangan River and smack-bang in the middle of the Kinabatangan Conservation Area. Since it's on location so to speak, Sukau is a great place to book a day-to-day Sukau Kinabatangan River cruise for wildlife spotting through your lodge.
There is a myriad of ways in which you can reach Sukau and the Kinabatangan River that don't require an organized tour. Here are your options.
- Buses: Buses running from Kota Kinabalu to Semporna pass by the Sukau Junction. You can get off here and hope for a van to take you down the long dirt road into Sukau. However, you need to hope that a van will be waiting at the junction. Alternatively, buses also run from Sandakan to Semporna and Lahad Datu, which you can jump on and get off at the same junction.
- Mr Choy: The most direct and cheapest option is to get shared transport by a Sukau local man known as Mr Choy. This is the option we took. Mr. Choy does daily trips from Sandakan for 60 Ringgit and can also pick you up from Sepilok on the way. His Whatsapp number is: 019-536-1889.
- Grab Car Easily the most expensive option. Expect to pay around 300 from Sandakan. I've been told that drivers even ask for more since they'll have to drive all the way back too.
Booking a Kinabatangan River Cruise from Sukau
Once you arrive in Sukau, you can book your river cruise. This is easily the best thing to do in the Kinabatangan River and are relatively inexpensive.
Boats cruise down the river and deep into the Kinabatangan Conservation Area to get a rare glimpse at the unique Sabah Bornean wildlife.
River Cruise Cost: 50-100 Ringgit Per Person (depending on the lodge).
Staying on the river means that you don't need to buy a pre-booked package on check-in. All lodges and hotels in Sukau. At the lodge where I stayed, the host offered open trips where we could choose to join in on morning, afternoon, or night cruises.
Most Kinabatangan River cruises hire local fishermen to guide you down the river, which is great because you're contributing directly to local communities.
My Experience on the Sukau Kinabatangan River Cruise
Wondering about what to expect on the river? Here's a quick itinerary of options you have to choose from and what kind of animals you might be lucky enough to spot, based on my experience.
Spotting Unique Wildlife on the Kinabtangan River
I've said it before and I'll say it again, the Kinabatangan River is one of the most biodiverse places that I've ever visited. Here's a quick summary of some of the Kinabatangan River Wildlife you might see based on how rare they are.
Common Animals
I'm not a biologist by any means, but I've categorized these species as common based on what I was told by the guide and which species we spotted on every trip.
Common wildlife includes:
- Long-tailed Macaque Monkeys - (we saw hundreds)
- Proboscis Monkeys - (endangered but we saw many)
- Hornbills - we saw a few flying by
- hawk eagles - we spotted many eagles
- owls - we spotted these only on the night cruises
- stalks - there are hundreds
- Kingfishers - we spotted quite a few
Less Common Animals
Less common species are those that we were told are quite rare, but those you'll have a decent chance of seeing if you take a few Sukau Kinabatangan River cruises.
- Leaf Monkeys (and different species variants)
- Bornean Gibbon
- Flying squirrels (night)
- Saltwater Crocodiles
- Turtles
- Black Leaf Monkey
- Pythons
- Wild Boar
- Wild Deer
- Orangutans
- Irrawaddy dolphins
- Monitor Lizards
Rare Animals
- Pygmy Elephant
- Otters
- Tarsiers (night cruise)
- Slow loris
- Freshwater Sharks
- Sumatran rhino
- Sun bears
Of course, since this is just a Kinabatangan River blog post and not a wildlife encyclopedia, it doesn't list every single animal you might encounter.
Sunrise River Cruise
The morning cruises are my favorite. Though you might not spot as many monkeys, the light seems to penetrate the trees on the river banks revealing loads of hidden reptiles and also bird species.
We were also told that we would have a higher chance of spotting more birds, but I think we saw just as many in the afternoons.
Sunset River Cruise
A Sukau Kinabatangan River cruise for sunset usually starts around 4:30 pm and is similar to the morning cruise. However, you'll have more chance of seeing different monkey species' as they make their way to the river banks in the afternoon.
Keep in mind though that the chance for rain is higher during this time. Your guide will probably drop you back just after sunset.
Night River Cruise
The night cruises are the most unique trips. You'll be armed with a torch to spot nocturnal species including tarsiers, possums, squirrels, and of course, the glowing eyes of 4-meter-plus crocodiles.
After three days on the river, we did 5 trips to maximize our chances of spotting the rarer animals like Orangutans, rhinos, and Pygmy Elephants. Unfortunately, we didn't spot any of these. However, we saw more than our fair share of animals, many of which are incredibly rare.
Staying on the Kinabatangan River Accommodation
While it's possible to stay in Sandakan and take tours into the Kinabatangan, staying on the Kinabatangan River is in my opinion, a must-do on any Sabah itinerary!
This region is one of the last remaining sanctuaries for wild orangutans, Bornean pygmy elephants, probosci's monkeys, to name a few. Here are some great accommodation picks.
1. Borneo Natural Sukau Bilit Resort
An amazing eco-jungle resort surrounded by lush greenery. Spot monkeys swinging from the vines from your own balcony overlooking the river.
2. Kinabatangan Wildlife Lodge Mid-Range
Affordable but comfortable lodges on the doorstep of the Kinabatangan.
3. Sukau Backpackers B&B Budget
Cheap rooms right on the edge of the Kinabatangan River. The real-deal raw jungle experience and run by guys who organize cheap river cruises.
Tips For Visiting The Kinabatangan River
Here are some quick tips that will serve you well on your trip to Sukau. If you have any more questions about independent Sukau Kinabatangan River cruises or anything else, you can throw down a comment below or email me. I'd be more than happy to help.
- Bring Food and Snacks - The village is very remote and you won't have access to general comfort foods or snacks. Most restaurants take advantage of the lack of services and charge a hefty premium.
- Visit this budget restaurant - There is one small restaurant located roughly 500 meters downstream from RB Lodge which serves relatively cheap local food. Here, you can avoid the hefty prices and still get a decent Nasi Goreng or Mie Goreng for 7 Ringgit.
- Bring Cash - Here's where I messed up. Since Borneo had been a much more expensive destination than what I was used to, I simply didn't realize that I hardly had any cash left on me when I arrive in Sukau. I quickly found out that there are no ATMs within an hour's drive.
- Luckily, Choy, our driver from Sepilok, was kind and trustworthy enough to take my debit card to the ATM on his next morning run to withdraw some cash for me. Seriously though, avoid the embarrassing situation and make sure you bring sufficient cash for your accommodation and Sukau river cruises.
- Bring a Dry Bag - The Kinabatangan River is a seriously wet place. This is especially true in the wet season. I'd recommend bringing a dry bag to store your electronics in and to bring extra dry clothes since anything wet will likely remain that way.
- Bring mosquito repellant - an absolute must and you'll be thanking me once you arrive!
- Walk the Elephant Trail to Sukau Cave - In Sukau, there is one particular trail that I believe is a must. The trail winds through the thick rainforest into a huge cave system. This one isn't on any travel guides or books and is a local gem.
- Check Out the Kinabatangan River Fireflies - If you can brave the rampant mosquitos, you'll be able to spot fireflies flying around almost everywhere in Sukau at night time. If this is something that you've always wanted to see, then just pop out at night and go for a look.
More Photos From Sukau & The Kinabatangan River
Hopefully, this Kinabatangan River blog will help you discover your inner Nat Geo photographer.
After some more wildlife inspo? Here are some more snaps from the Sukau river cruise and the Kinabatangan River that I took over a few days.
I hope that this travel guide to visiting the Kinabatangan River and experiencing the incredible river cruise has inspired you to visit this biodiverse region of Sabah. While you're here, check out some of my other guides below for more travel & adventure inspiration for your trip to Malaysian Borneo!
- One Day In Kuala Lumpur - my popular itinerary guide to spending a layover in KL.
- Sabah Itinerary - how to spend a week in Sabah, Malaysian Borneo.
- Where to Stay in Kota Kinabalu - my helpful accommodation guide to finding a great hotel in KK!
Peter
Sunday 6th of August 2023
Hi, We are a couple planning a short visit to Sabah just for the reason to spot Orangutans in wild not in rehabilitation centre. 1)Is it worth staying in Sukau and taking river cruise. If there is any other option/place please suggest. We both have knee issues however can walk distance not trek steep gradient/slippery path. 2) How do i buy in order to support your work Thanks Peter
Denise Silzer
Tuesday 25th of April 2023
Hi, love your blog! I am organizing a girls trip to Indonesia and Borneo with four other ladies. I see that you did the river cruises as a day trip but I am more interested in doing a multiday trip on the river boats that you sleep on. I am having a difficult time finding information on local guides/ boaters. The companies I find on the internet are very expensive and need to be booked ahead of time. As well, the companies are often based elsewhere and not local. I would like to book a 3-5 night cruise with a local company. We are going in November so it is not high season. Do you think we can wait until we are in Java to book? Do you know any other way to organize this without spending way more money than I have? I can not even seem to find a government tourist guide website...
Aoife Sadlier
Thursday 30th of March 2023
Hey Olly, thanks for the informative blog. I am a solo traveller visiting Sabah in May. At the moment, all I have booked is Sepilok for three nights, and I am finding it hard to organise the rest of the itinerary. I would definitely like to do a Kinabatangan river tour for 1 or 2 nights though. The main issue I am finding at the moment is that many tours online require at least 2 guests to book (unless there is a trick I am missing). Have you any suggestions about this? In general, I am finding it quite hard to arrange this Sabah trip, partly because many companies are not responding to my emails and I do not have credit to call them! Best, Aoife
Shayne
Wednesday 23rd of November 2022
Hi Olly We have a diving trip booked from Semporna around 14 days after we arrive in KK, We are thinking about a hire car and self drive to try to cover these attractions on the way to Semporna by road, what are your thoughts? Regards Shayne
Olly Gaspar
Wednesday 23rd of November 2022
Hi! Yes, driving yourself would give you a more flexible itinerary for Sabah and shouldn't be any problem.
hello
Saturday 7th of March 2020
Hello would you mind stating which blog platform you're using? I'm looking to start my own blog soon but I'm having a tough time making a decision between BlogEngine/Wordpress/B2evolution and Drupal. The reason I ask is because your design seems different then most blogs and I'm looking for something unique.
P.S Sorry for getting off-topic but I had to ask!
Olly Gaspar
Sunday 8th of March 2020
Hi,
It's a Wordpress site :)