Palm Cove and Port Douglas are the two beach towns north of Cairns that most people end up choosing between, and they’re only 40 minutes apart on the same coastal highway. I lived in Trinity Beach for a year, ten minutes down the road from Palm Cove, and I’ve driven up to Port Douglas more times than I can count.
Here’s my take. Palm Cove is small, walkable and close to the airport. Port Douglas is the bigger holiday town (big is a stretch), with the Daintree and the outer reef on its doorstep. If you’re also weighing up the city, have a read of my Cairns vs Port Douglas comparison too.
The Short Answer
Choose Palm Cove if…
- You're on a short trip. Cairns Airport is only 20 to 25 minutes away.
- You want to walk everywhere. The hotels, restaurants and beach are all on one street.
- You're planning Cairns day trips like Fitzroy Island, the outer reef or Kuranda.
Choose Port Douglas if…
- The Daintree and Cape Tribulation are the main reason you're coming.
- You want the shortest boat ride to the outer reef.
- You're staying four nights or more and want more going on at night.
Palm Cove vs Port Douglas at a Glance
| Palm Cove | Port Douglas | |
|---|---|---|
| From Cairns Airport | 20 to 25 minutes | Just over an hour |
| From Cairns city | About 30 minutes | About an hour (67 km / 42 mi) |
| Beach | Palm Cove, stinger net at the surf club | Four Mile Beach, stinger net in summer |
| Reef boats | Cairns Reef Fleet Terminal | Port Douglas marina |
| Daintree River ferry | About 1 hour 20 minutes | About an hour |
| Kuranda Skyrail | Just down the road in Smithfield | About 1 hour 15 minutes |
| Best for | Short trips, couples, no car | Longer stays, families, the Daintree |
Getting There From Cairns Airport
Every flight lands in Cairns, and this is where Palm Cove wins easily. The Northern Beaches are a 15 to 20-minute drive from the airport, and a shared shuttle gets you to Palm Cove in about 25 minutes.
Port Douglas is just over an hour away, with no public buses on that route. Uber is limited up here and taxis are pricey, so you're hiring a car or booking a shuttle. On a three-night trip, that's a fair chunk of your holiday spent in a van.
Tip: Pre-book the shared shuttle at least a day ahead and pick it up from the desk in the arrivals hall. Book: Cairns Airport Transfers
In Palm Cove you won't need a car at all, and the route 110 bus runs into Cairns. In Port Douglas, I'd get one. Plenty of resorts sit down the southern end of Four Mile Beach, and the best day trips are all a drive away. I always use DiscoverCars and book early, because I've missed out on cars in Cairns before.
What Each Town Feels Like
Palm Cove
Palm Cove is basically one street of resorts, restaurants and bars facing a beach lined with coconut palms. It's quiet, and most nights it winds down after dinner. Condé Nast Traveller has named it the best beach in the world, and on a calm morning it's easy to see why.
My favourite restaurant in the whole Far North is here: Il Forno, a pizzeria a short walk from the beach. Walk it off on the rainforest track at the north end of the bay, then catch the sunset from Palm Cove Jetty.
Port Douglas
Port Douglas feels like a proper little town, with about 3,500 locals and 1.2 million visitors a year. Macrossan Street is the main strip, and my favourite pub on it is the Iron Bar, an outback-style pub with an upstairs view.
The 1.5 km Flagstaff Hill trail runs from Rex Smeal Park to Four Mile Beach, and on a clear day you can see out to the Low Isles. Rex Smeal Park is one of my favourite sunset spots, and the Sunday market sets up off Wharf Street beside St Mary's by the Sea. My full list is in my guide to the best things to do in Port Douglas.
The first time I saw Port Douglas was from the deck of our boat. We anchored up the creek past the marina and spotted a 1.5-metre (5 ft) croc sunning itself on the mangroves, less than 50 metres away. Within half a week we were covered in sandfly bites. Not quite the luxury resort experience.
Swimming, Stingers and Crocs
In my opinion, Four Mile Beach is one of the most scenic beaches in the Far North, and it's much bigger. Palm Cove is shorter and more sheltered, and its whole thing is the palms right on the sand. For a swim close to Cairns, Palm Cove and Trinity Beach are my two favourites on the mainland. I've ranked the rest in my guide to the best beaches in Cairns.
Stinger season runs from November to May, when box jellyfish and Irukandji are in the water along this whole coast. Both towns have stinger nets with lifeguards, so swim inside the net and between the flags. The nets aren't completely stinger-proof, so wear a stinger suit in season. Lately the wet season has been dragging into May and June, and the nets are staying in longer.
Tip: Buy your own stinger suit before you arrive. It's more comfortable and more hygienic than a hired one, and I wear mine whenever I'm in the water in season. My Cairns packing list has the rest.
Crocs have been spotted on Four Mile Beach, and salties live in the estuaries around both towns. Don't swim in creeks, rivers or estuaries up here, full stop. If you want to see one safely, here's where to see crocodiles in Cairns.
Getting to the Great Barrier Reef
From Port Douglas
In my opinion, Port Douglas edges ahead on the outer reef. Boats leave from the town marina and head out to the ribbon reefs, so you can be in the water within an hour. Calypso and Quicksilver are the two big operators, and I prefer Calypso for its sites around Agincourt and Opal Reef.
For an easier day, the Low Isles are 30 minutes from the marina. The lagoon is calm enough for kids, and we had blacktip reef sharks circling the boat when we anchored there. A full day on the Wavedancer catamaran is under A$260 per person, and a half day with Calypso is about A$230.
Tip: Book online rather than at the tour desks on Macrossan Street, which often add a commission. Book: Wavedancer Low Isles Sailing or Low Isles Glass Bottom Boat
From Palm Cove
From Palm Cove you're using the Cairns fleet, which leaves from the Reef Fleet Terminal about 30 minutes away. Some operators pick up from the Northern Beaches, or the route 110 bus gets you into town. The outer reef is about 90 minutes out by fast boat, and my favourite day is with Down Under Cruise and Dive (the rest are in my guide to the best Great Barrier Reef tours).
You also get the Cairns islands, which is where I'd go for snorkelling near Cairns. Fitzroy and Green Island are both 45 minutes by ferry, and honestly, the islands off Cairns have healthier reef than the Low Isles.
Tip: Get to the Reef Fleet Terminal 15 minutes before check-in, and look for free parking in the centre aisle of the city streets. Book: Outer Great Barrier Reef Day Trip
Scenic flights run from both towns, but a scenic plane flight from Cairns Airport costs about half what a helicopter does. I've done both and compare them in my Cairns helicopter tours guide, or book a 30-minute flight from Port Douglas.
Day Trips: Which Base Is Closer
Port Douglas wins for the rainforest. Mossman Gorge is 20 minutes away, the Daintree River ferry is about an hour, and Cape Tribulation is roughly two hours. From Palm Cove, add 30 to 40 minutes to each. Mossman Gorge gets busy, so go early or roll it into a bigger Daintree day.
While you wait for the ferry, jump on Solar Whisper, my favourite croc cruise on the Daintree (here's my full review). My Cairns to Cape Tribulation drive guide and things to do in Cape Tribulation cover the rest. Closer to town, Spring Creek Falls is 20 minutes from Port Douglas, and I had it all to myself.
Tip: No car? A guided day trip covers Mossman Gorge, a Daintree River cruise and Cape Tribulation in one go. Book: Daintree Tour from Port Douglas or Daintree Tour from Cairns
Palm Cove wins for Kuranda and the Tablelands. The Skyrail starts just down the road in Smithfield, and it's an epic 7.5 km ride over the rainforest canopy to Kuranda. From Port Douglas it's about an hour and 15 minutes each way. I've visited over 30 waterfalls up there, and my Atherton Tablelands guide is the place to start.
Food, Nights Out and Cost
Port Douglas has more of everything: pubs and restaurants on Macrossan Street, the brewery at the marina and the Sunday market. A sunset catamaran sail is a great way to start a night, at about A$80 for 1.5 hours on the water with a drink. Palm Cove has a short strip of good restaurants and a couple of bars, and that's about it. That suits me fine, since Il Forno is there.
Port Douglas is the pricier base, with more high-end resorts, pricier restaurants and a longer transfer. Tours cost about the same in both, though Cairns has more operators competing for your booking. If you're on a budget, a dorm at Global Backpackers is under A$33 a night.
Can't Decide? Do Both
This is what I tell friends. The towns are 40 minutes apart, so base yourself in Palm Cove for the airport and the Cairns day trips, then drive up to Port Douglas for a day, or move up for a night or two before the Daintree.
The Drive Between Port Douglas and Palm Cove
It's an epic drive, and in my opinion one of the best coastal roads in the world. Ten minutes past Palm Cove, stop at Ellis Beach for nachos at the Ellis Beach Bar and Grill, or take the 7.8 km (4.8 mi) Wangetti Trail there on foot from Palm Cove Jetty. Further on, Hartleys Creek Falls is a quiet waterfall walk 15 km (9 mi) from Palm Cove.
The stretch from Thala Beach to Rex Lookout is the best bit, and on weekends you'll often see hang gliders launching off the lookout. Just before Port Douglas, stop at the Mowbray River footbridge at low tide. I've seen crocs there seven times out of a dozen or so visits, usually the same 4-metre (13 ft) one on the same bank.
Tip: Ironman Cairns swims off Palm Cove and rides this highway every June. Expect Palm Cove to book out and road closures on race day, so check the date before you book.
Or Try Trinity Beach
I lived in Trinity Beach for a year, and honestly, I'd pick it over Palm Cove on a lot of days. It's just as pretty, with a palm-lined beach and a stinger net, minus most of the tourists. The Earl Hill track is a 3.2 km (2 mi) loop that ends on the beach. You'll want a car or the bus, but if that's fine, Sea Point on Trinity Beach is the place to book.
Pop next door to Kewarra Beach too, one of the best spots to see wild wallabies near Cairns.
Where to Stay
Palm Cove
- Luxury: Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore, with apartments, three pools and a day spa opposite the beach and jetty.
- Best value: Paradise on the Beach, a short walk from Il Forno and good for groups and families.
- Central: Peppers Beach Club and Spa, right in the middle of the esplanade.
Port Douglas
- Luxury: Sheraton Grand Mirage, my favourite, with nine pools on Four Mile Beach.
- Couples: Oaks Resort. Haylea and I stayed here for our anniversary, and the private hot tub was perfect with a wine.
- Adults only: Peninsula Boutique Hotel, with only a line of palms between you and the beach. Shantara and The Newport are good adults-only picks in town too.
- Villas: Niramaya Villas and Spa, with private plunge pools.
- Budget: Global Backpackers on Macrossan Street.
More options are in my guides to where to stay in Port Douglas and where to stay in Cairns.
My Verdict
For most trips, I'd pick Palm Cove. It's close to the airport, you can walk everywhere, and the islands, reef boats and Kuranda are all easy. It's where I base myself when I head home to Cairns.
Go with Port Douglas if the Daintree is the whole point of your trip, or if you're staying a week and want a livelier town. Better yet, do both and drive the coast road in between. Either way, my list of the best things to do in Cairns will keep you busy.